While Tokyo’s fish markets may be famous, the actual sushi capital of Japan lies far to the north. Nestled into the Pacific coastline of Miyagi prefecture just a thirty-minute ride north-west from Sendai lies the port town of Shiogama, the “Sushi Capital of Japan.” This charming port town is famous for its fish and for its connection to Matsushima Bay, one of Japan’s top three vistas. It is also a great place to experience art and Japanese traditional culture!
Shiogama is famous for its fishing industry, particularly its swordfish and tuna. While much of the abundant catches go on from Shioagama fish market to be sold in Sendai and elsewhere in Japan, Shiogama boasts the largest number of sushi restaurants per capita in the entire country. Whether you try the fish at one of these restaurants for lunch, or get up with the sun to catch the market in action before breakfast time, you are sure to enjoy some of the most delicious sushi in the country in Shiogama.
The name Shiogama literally translates to Salt Furnace, in reference to the ancient practice of boiling the local salt water to produce salt. While salt is no longer one of the city’s top exports, you can still catch a traditional salt furnace event at Shiogama Jinja each July during their summer festival. Interestingly, the kanji for the city of Shiogama are not fixed. Sometimes locals will use kanji that mean “salt furnace” and sometimes “salt kettle.” The Shiogama shrine even uses archaic kanji that are no longer used elsewhere!
Believed to be over 1200 years old, Shioagama and Shiwahiko Jinja shrine is one of the most important shrines in the Tohoku region. Dedicated to safe childbirth and fishing, the shrine’s 15 buildings have been designated important cultural treasures. There is also a small local history museum on the grounds. The shrine’s main entrance is up 202 steps, but there is a more accessible entrance round the back! Some of the festivals hosted at the shrine include a mounted archery festival, the salt furnace festival, and a spring cherry blossom festival which takes full advantage of the shrine’s hundreds of cherry trees.
Shiogama is home to roughly half the islands dotting the famous Matsushima Bay. From the port’s Marine Gate you can take the Maruban Matsushima Kisen sightseeing boat to the Urato islands, which are popular among locals for sunbathing, marine sports, and of course, fishing. One of the islands, Sabusawajima, was the birthplace of the first Japanese to traverse the globe, Tsudayu and Sahei. As you gaze out over the stunning scene, why not reflect on the world-travelling adventures that brought you to Japan?
Shiogama is home to the Sugiwara Jun Museum of Art, which showcases the considerable work of oil painter Sugiwara Jun (1907-2001). This museum also hosts temporary exhibitions and community events, making it a great place to rub elbows with the locals! For a limited time, the museum is also offering a brooch lacquering workshop. This workshop is unique, as it uses the dry lacquer technique which was popular in the Nara period for the creation of lightweight but imposingly large Buddha statues.
Shiogama can be easily accessed via the JR Senseki local line from Sendai. This trip takes approximately thirty minutes. Most of Shiogama’s attractions are located quite close to one another, making it an easy and enjoyable day-trip (or even half-day trip!) from Sendai.
Shiogama is also connected to the nearby port of Matsushima via both train lines and sightseeing boats.
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While Tokyo’s fish markets may be famous, the actual sushi capital of Japan lies far to the north in Miyagi prefecture, in the port town of Shiogama.
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