Matsushima

During his tour of Tohoku, famed poet Matsuo Basho claimed Matsushima was one of the most beautiful places in Japan. I find myself inclined to agree. There simply isn’t a view quite like this anywhere else in the country! The bay is dotted with hundreds of little islands, each carefully shaped by the pounding waves and bracing sea-breezes. 

 

However, Matsushima is more than simply a beautiful bay filled with stunning rock formations. The mainland town is also home to centuries of Buddhist culture, samurai history, and incredible seafood. This is a day trip from Sendai you won’t want to miss. 

Buddhist Culture/ Samurai History

Matsushima and its bay have been a pilgrimage destination since at least the ninth century, when Tendai Buddhist monk Jikaku Daishi founded the original Zuiganji and Godaido temples. Today, this small hamlet is home to three major Buddhist temples: Godaido, Zuiganji, and Entsuin. All three temples owe their current appearance to Date Masamune, Sendai’s Warring States Period daimyo. He restored the two existing temples, and founded the third, Entsuin, in the early seventeenth century. All three temples are designated Nationally Important Cultural Properties, and all are within easy walking distance of the port. Godaido, seen right, is located on a promontory, and is known as the symbol of Matsushima. Be careful crossing the sukashibashi red bridges to the temple itself! The boards are purposefully placed to compel would-be worshippers to pay attention to their surroundings.

Seriously Good Food

Given its proximity to Shiogama, the sushi capital of Japan, it should be no surprise that Matsushima serves some excellent seafood. Pacific Oysters in particular are a Matsushima specialty. They are at their most delicious from October to March, but are available all year. For braver gourmets, a local ice cream shop also offers seafood flavored ice creams.

 

 

Tea with a View

For travellers looking for an afternoon break from temple viewing, Kanrantei tea house offers a traditional Japanese matcha and wagashi set with a view of the bay. This former samurai tea house once hosted officials from the imperial court and other high-ranking visitors in its stunning gold-leafed inner sanctum.  

There is also a cafe located in Saigyo Modoshi no Matsu Park which offers spectacular views and more western fare, though it is something of a hike from the rest of the sights in town. 

Traditional Fare

You can find more traditional Buddhist fare at Ungai, a shojin ryori restaurant located on the grounds of Entsuin temple. Enjoy a delectable vegetarian kaiseki spread for lunch or dinner. Reservations must be made at least five days in advance, so be sure to secure your booking ahead of time.

 

Onsen Ryokan

Matsushima’s mineral-rich alkaline hot spring waters can be experienced at several onsen ryokan, ranging from mid-range to luxury. You can enjoy the view that so captivated Basho while relaxing in the slightly opaque mineral waters of an outdoor onsen bath. These waters are good for soothing muscle pains and neuralgia. Some of the ryokan also offer day-trip passes, so even if you only have time for a day-trip you can still reap the benefits of the local onsen!

Island Hopping

Matsushima is home to roughly half the islands dotting the famous Matsushima Bay. From the port you can take a sightseeing boat in a loop around some of the most popular islands or on to Shiogama.

Hands-on Experience

Entsuin temple offers a Buddhist bead bracelet making experience for a very reasonable extra fee, depending on the materials you want to use. Just ask if you can take part when you pay the entrance fee! 

 

Access to Matsushima

Matsushima can easily be accessed from Sendai via two public transport routes; the train and sightseeing boats. 

By train, you can take a JR Senseki to Matsushima-kaigen from Sendai in under an hour. 

By boat, take a JR Senseki to Shiogama. From Shiogama, take one of the hourly sightseeing boats from the Marine Gate to Matsushima. This is more expensive and time consuming, but turns the commute in sightseeing as well!

Either of these travel methods can be used to return to Sendai, although you should note that the last sightseeing boat leaves Matsushima at 5:00 pm.

Matsushima can also be accessed via car.

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